Edwardian: A quick guide on how to achieve 'the look'.

I was recently asked to write out a quick guide on how volunteers at Polesden Lacey can achieve the Edwardian look, as it's not just about putting on the costume. I thought I'd post it here, for anyone who might find it useful.

The desired look in the Edwardian era was very light, pale, and natural. The use of make up as we know it today was only just starting to become popular, and even then the objective was to create an effect of youthful beauty without anyone knowing you were actually wearing any. Here are some tips on how to achieve the fashionable Edwardian look.

• If you wear foundation, try and get some a shade or so lighter, and apply lightly.

• Alternatively, you can use a cheap pressed powder, also a shade or two lighter, and apply liberally. The light, powdered look was very much in fashion.

• Rouge was one product that started to be used for more of an everyday look, applied faintly to the cheeks and lips, but only to accentuate the natural colouring. Feel free to play around with this, applying a little blusher to the cheeks, and perhaps some tinted lip balm to the lips.
• Eye make up was still generally frowned upon, but this didn't stop women from coming up with ways to make their lashes appear longer, and so a bit of mascara can be used, but eyeliner came in much later.

• Eyebrows were a distinct feature of the desired Edwardian look, and creating that arched brow would add to the natural elegance, so have some fun there!

• Don't be afraid to experiment, and have a play to see just what works best for you.

Hair was a very important part of the Edwardian look. As the hats grew, so too did the hairstyles beneath in order to support them! Curls were all the rage, and curling irons soon came about, meaning hair became a frizzy, voluminous poof of curls piled on top of the head.

• For long to medium length, the easiest way to achieve your desired amount of volume, is to build your structure on top of something! Anything from hair rats to a pair of socks, with the hair swept over it works well. And you can almost mould it to fit underneath your hat, as they would have done.

• If your hair is shorter, then go for curls, and volume. Fluff it up and sweep it back to give the impression of an up-do.

• Edwardian hair was almost the opposite to the slick, neat and tidy look of the Victorians, so really go for the textured look.

• Some did have fringes, but they were heavily style and swept away from the face.

• Don't forget to style your hair to your hat! It should ideally be done in such a way that is can be seen from all angles, to show of your lovely locks.

Emily Winthrop, ca. 1910. Amateur autochrome by John B. Trevor.

A quick note.

This is what I've been up to recently.

First there was the Bath Jane Austen Festival back in September, along with the Regency outfit I made myself, which certainly deserves its own post, but here's a little teaser for you.

And then I did a bit of talking on how to achieve the Edwardian look for the volunteers at Polesden Lacey (that lovely Edwardian house where I get to sit and sew Edwardian costumes, often dressing up in them myself).

I went to an exhibition at the V&A, on wedding dresses from 1775-2014, which was brilliant. Each dress had been donated, and so there were little stories behind them, and it was just lovely.

I finished another Edwardian corset, complete with flossing (decorative embroidery that holds the boning in place), which was something new to me. I've yet to take photos of the finished product, but here's a work in progress shot.

And now, I am getting back into dressmaking after having taken a little break, getting back into knitting after having taken a bit of a longer break, and sewing another Edwardian corset.

A quick Regency reticule.

No Regency outfit is complete without accessories, and when those accessories are functional as well as being pretty, you can't go much wrong.

A reticule was the name given to a little drawstring bag that ladies carried around, becoming popular when the 'pockets' of the 18th century were no longer commonly used, as the styles of dresses changed considerably. Here, and here are a couple of blog posts if you wanted some further reading...

Reticules are very easy to make, and with endless shapes, trimmings and designs to be used, you can really personalise them. I chose to literally personalise mine by embroidering my initials.

I used this tutorial as a guide, quickly sketching my own pattern, and it only took an evening to do!

Inside, it's fully lined, and nice and roomy.

Busy busy busy.

I was hoping it wouldn't be a repeat of last year, where I completely forgot to keep up with blogging during the summer, but alas, it has happened again. But, just like last year, I have been busy with interesting things!

Firstly, the show I mentioned in my last post went fabulously, and I had an absolute whale of a time.

And then, I went off for a couple of weeks in France, which was lovely.

I continued with my usual doings at Polesden Lacey, including the flossing on the Edwardian corset I'm working on, which is a functional but decorative type of embroidery that's designed to keep the boning in place.

And recently, I have been doing an awful lot of sewing. Or at least, it seams like an awful lot of sewing, but I don't appear to have much to show for it, if you get what I mean?

My spencer jacket is making progress, and I'm currently stitching on the velvet trim in a military inspired style.

And I made a quick Regency reticule one evening, as you do. I'll pop that into separate post.

Speaking of Regency, I do have a spot of news, which I'm rather excited about...

After wanting to for a good few years now, I shall be attending the Jane Austen Festival in Bath this year! Unfortunately it will only be the Costumed Promenade on the 13th of September, but still, I am very much looking forward to it. 

It does mean that I have to have a complete Regency outfit under my belt by that date, and that is what I have been getting on with recently. Undies are done, jacket, gown, bonnet and shoes are in progress. 

Will try and keep you updated, but here's a photo to be going on with! 

Feathers, bonnets, and 8tracks.

I haven't been doing an awful lot of work on my historical sewing lately, as I've been busy altering costumes for a show I'm performing in next month. Taking up hems here, adding panels there, the usual necessities when costuming amateur dramatics!

Now, something I tend to do when I've got to get through a lot of sewing, is listen to music.

I am a big music fan. Anything from classical to folk, from musicals to indie, my listening isn't limited to favourites. I'm often sat there with my headphones in, sewing (and sometimes singing) away. So, I thought it'd be a good a time as any to mention 8tracks. The website, that is...

Of the mixes I've done, this is my favourite. It gives you a little idea of the sort of things you can find.

It's basically somewhere people create playlists by uploading tracks of their choice, and you get to listen to them for free. It's all legal, as you are limited to the number of times you can skip tracks, and you don't know what's coming up next, and so on. But still, it's a small price to pay! You can find all sorts on there; period drama soundtracks, 1920's dance tracks, playlists that make you feel like you're striding down a road wearing shades with explosions going off behind you. All sorts.

And another thing I like about it, is that you can find people with similar music tastes to you, and look to see what they're listening to, and discover new music, or indulge in your favourite genres. It's pretty cool.

I have made some progress with my spencer jacket, meaning I've just the collar left to fiddle about with, and have finally decided what colour to trim it with! As it's a sort of beige-y woven fabric, my first thought was black, but, as I thought about it, I settled on navy blue. My reason being, is that I'm finally getting round to trimming a bonnet that I started a good few months back, and I can then get the beginnings of an outfit together.

Feathers! This was before I'd had a play and curled them. The cockade was also loosely pinned to get an idea of the final trim.

I realise I'm going about this all in the complete wrong order, as I don't even have a complete set of underwear, but, ah well. I'm eager to get going, and as I've mentioned before, if I don't have the necessary materials, it can take a little while to get things done. 

A second spencer, in process.

It would appear my last post has worked, as I'm currently working on another Regency spencer jacket! I realise I'm creating my Regency wardrobe entirely the wrong way round, meaning I've got the stays, and the outerwear, but that's it. You see, I don't get the chance to go fabric shopping often, and prefer going to the shops as opposed to online shopping, and so if I don't have the materials needed, it doesn't often get done! Spencer jackets don't require a lot of fabric, and are fun to play around with, and there is my reason. Now, I've made a spencer jacket before, using the Sense & Sensibility Spencer Pattern, which I've yet to take photos of, but I altered it to fit over modern underwear. And also as a sort of introduction to Regency clothes, for myself. I will post a picture as soon as I get round to taking one.

 I wanted to have a good old fiddle with this pattern, to alter the shape, as well as a few other tweaks.

Here is my first mock up. On the right, is simply the pattern pieces stitched together. All I've done is extend the gather over the shoulder, which you can't see in this photo. Notice how the armhole more or less extends outwards from the point of the 'diamond'. Well, being fairly broad shouldered, this doesn't suit me as well as an armhole set further in. It also is more to the shape of the later Regency era, getting into the sloped shoulders and big ol' sleeves of the 1830's.

On the left, I've started to alter it by simply taking in the shoulder seam. However, this turned out to be a bigger job than I thought. 

Here you can see the problem a little clearer. Having taken in the seam, I've caused puckers where the fabric is pulled up. Easily fixed, just takes a little bit more fiddling. I unpicked the entire bottom left seams and all seams surrounding, and moved them into place.

Other alterations I've made and are in the process of making include taking in the shoulders, adding a stand up collar, extending the lapels, taking in the side seams, as well as the sleeves, reducing the puff, and fixing the darts. Just a few tweaks then!

The tiny specks you see in between the drawn darts are where they were supposed to end. 

And here are the darts at work!

Since then, I've made a second mock up using the pieces from the first, and it fits rather nicely. Next up, more tweaks, and the collar.

A little Regency inspiration.

I feel this blog has been a little Edwardian heavy lately, and so I thought I'd put together a quick (or not so) post of Regency inspiration, for both myself, and anybody out there who may be interested.

Let's kick things off with some fashion plates! Fashion plates are often a good source of finding historically accurate inspiration, but it is a good idea to bare in mind that these were high end, therefore not necessarily worn by everybody. It's like how today we have the super-duper trendy items of clothing, and then we have the clothes that we feel comfortable in, or are best suited to our personal taste.

Mint green pelisse with ribbon trim, 1817.

c. 1800

What fabulous trim on that spencer! Also, note the clocked stockings.

Gibson Girl Blouse

As featured in my previous post, here are some photos of my Edwardian shirtwaist! Made out of polycotton using the Folkwear #205 Gibson Girl Blouse pattern.

Buttons all the way up the back, with a hook and eye at the collar.

Here it is with the tie undone, and this photo gives you a better idea of the fullness the gathers create.

Sleeve gathered at the shoulder, lace appliquéd onto the yoke, and also inserted into the stand up collar.

The same shot, but inside out.

Now, the original plan was to put a facing on the yoke, both the front and the back, and then an interfacing in the collar, and so I put the blouse together with this in mind. It was only when I was about to add the facing, that I decided against it! Hence the bias binding where there should be a french seam. But, it adds a bit of structure, so I'm really not that fussed.

The bias cuff and gathers on the sleeve. One of my favourite parts of this blouse!

And, to put it in context...

You can see the scalloped edge of my corset cover underneath in this one!

Over all, I'm quite pleased with it, for a first attempt. Next time, I'll go one whole step further, and add a bunch of lace inserts! 

Edwardian afternoons.

This is me. Every Thursday afternoon. And I am in my element.

I mentioned a few posts ago that I get to spend the day sewing various bits of period costume in an Edwardian house. Well, now I get to wear them, too!

I glide (as one does in a corset) about the house, talking to visitors, answering their questions on Edwardian clothing, helping the children try on the little dresses and sailor suits we've made for them, and take afternoon strolls around the gardens, parasol in hand. And I really love it. 

This was today's attire. We have a store of what I believe to be over 60 costumes, both day and evening wear, each with their own accessories, that have been made over the years, and I get to work my way through the wardrobe with a different outfit almost every week. The blouse is made by myself, and here you can find a post about it.

I'm also wearing a full set of underwear, so it can get a little warm under all those layers, as you can imagine...

I don't remember manage to take photos of every outfit, but this one here is from a few weeks back, and is an original Edwardian suit, and one of my favourite costumes. The colour, the details, the fit, are all just lovely. 

It truly is a great experience, with many interesting conversations. 

People hardly believe me when I tell them just how comfortable a corset really is!

History + books = one happy me.

I love history. My love of historical fashion is just the start of it, really! I love the everyday things. The daily rituals and routines. Learning how items we still use today first came about, why and how they were created. How, even though these inhabitants of the past were people just like us with the same emotions, their attitudes could be so very different. The more I learn, the more I know, the more I love.

Up until recently, my knowledge has been based around the eras of my interest as a child. Mainly Victorian and Regency, with a bit of Edwardian, which is probably due to films such as Little Women, Sense and Sensibility, and many classic movie musicals that I grew up enjoying. I was always fixated with the costumes, and the scenes that stuck in my head would so often be the ones with the most interesting dresses! All the more if there was a corset involved. However, I've always had an interest in earlier eras, particularly Medieval and Tudor, but the facts have always been a bit of a blur. Knowing little things here and there (like which of Henry VIII's wives were beheaded, or why women didn't wear their hair down) lend themselves well to certain things, but I'm curious about the bigger picture.

Today, I wanted to quickly share with you a couple of books.

The first book of the two, is this...

Tudor: The Family Story by Leanda De Lisle, is basically Tudor history told as the historical drama that it is. And it's very good. Inside the covers are two family trees, entitled The Past: The House of Lancaster and York and The Family: Descendants of Henry VII, which I find myself referring to constantly throughout. It paints a picture of one of the most famous dynasties in British history that's easy to understand. Who's descended from who, the reasons for the many battles (I'm only on Margaret Beaufort, and Henry VI's second reign, and I've already encountered a good few), and finding the little things on these historical characters that really brings them to life. For me, reading a book about people who actually existed is just as good as reading a book about fictional characters you only wished existed!

The second of the two is one I just found today in a charity shop (good ol' charity shops) and is The Time Traveller's Guide to Medieval England.

I was having what was intended to be a flick through on the way home, when I found myself reading entire chapters. It's one of those books where you can just flip to a page and start reading, and it's so engaging that you're in no hurry to stop. As the title suggests, it's written in the form of a time traveller's handbook to everyday life in Medieval England, covering what you need to know for all types of person. What you would be allowed to wear, how different their sense of humour is to our own, how you would travel, where you would stay. It's amusing at the same time as being informative, and I think it's fantastic. Here's a snippet from the opening paragraph, to give you an idea: "Imagine yourself in a dusty London street on a summer morning. A servant opens an upstairs shutter and starts beating a blanket. A dog guarding a traveller's packhorses starts barking. Nearby traders call out from their market stalls while two women stand chatting, one shielding her eyes from the sun, the other with a basket in her arms. The wooden beams of houses project out over the street. Painted signs above the doors show what is for sale in the shops beneath. Suddenly a thief grabs a merchant's purse near the traders' stalls, and the merchant runs after him, shouting. Everyone turns to watch. And you, in the middle of all this, where are you going to stay tonight? What are you wearing? What are you going to eat? 

"As soon as you start to think of the past happening (as opposed to it having happened), a new way of conceiving history becomes possible."

I personally think that sounds rather inviting.

Edwardian catalogues.

 I was browsing through my bookshelves the other day, and rediscovered this book that had been given to me by my Grandmother a year or so ago. Edwardian Shopping; A Selection of Army & Navy Stores Catalogues. 1898-1913. 

I thought I'd show you some of my personal highlights.

It has an array of items, from corsets and collars, to typewriters and trunks. And bicycles. And revolvers. And wedding cakes. Y'know. The usual.

Styles changed a fair bit in the time period this book covers, and it gives a little insight to the everyday of the Edwardian being.

Of course, the gentlemen aren't forgotten.

An entire page, for collars!

Spotted Jane Austen in the Novels section. I must give Lady Susan a read...

POCKET WATCHES.

More corsets... This is getting into the early 1900s, and you can see the silhouette has changed a little.

Typewriters. Lovely.

I believe I have a thing for trunks.

Corsets, this time from 1913. The silhouette has changed quite drastically now.

I shall be making good use of this book, now that I'm aware of its existence, and I'm sure it shall prove to be useful! Or just to look at. I don't mind.

Bags, bows, cards, and sock monsters.

Today, I had the opportunity to make a few little things to sell, and given that I had a matter of days to do so, a few little things it was.

Bags, bows, cards, and sock monsters, to be precise.

Look at them, the lil' gang. As for the design, I got the idea from Blue Peter many years ago, and over time it has evolved into what you see.

I quite liked this bag, actually. Out of everything, this is something I'd have wanted to keep, but alas, it sold.

I've always been a bit of a card maker, but only recently started trying out this 'style' of cards - pen and ink drawings.

And lastly, hair bows. These are very handy things to make for when you need emergency presents and the such. Here's the tutorial I based mine on.

Do let me know if you'd like some quick tutorials for anything! Everything here is fairly easy to make, and creating your own sock creature is actually rather fun.