Feathers, bonnets, and 8tracks.

I haven't been doing an awful lot of work on my historical sewing lately, as I've been busy altering costumes for a show I'm performing in next month. Taking up hems here, adding panels there, the usual necessities when costuming amateur dramatics!

Now, something I tend to do when I've got to get through a lot of sewing, is listen to music.

I am a big music fan. Anything from classical to folk, from musicals to indie, my listening isn't limited to favourites. I'm often sat there with my headphones in, sewing (and sometimes singing) away. So, I thought it'd be a good a time as any to mention 8tracks. The website, that is...

Of the mixes I've done, this is my favourite. It gives you a little idea of the sort of things you can find.

It's basically somewhere people create playlists by uploading tracks of their choice, and you get to listen to them for free. It's all legal, as you are limited to the number of times you can skip tracks, and you don't know what's coming up next, and so on. But still, it's a small price to pay! You can find all sorts on there; period drama soundtracks, 1920's dance tracks, playlists that make you feel like you're striding down a road wearing shades with explosions going off behind you. All sorts.

And another thing I like about it, is that you can find people with similar music tastes to you, and look to see what they're listening to, and discover new music, or indulge in your favourite genres. It's pretty cool.

I have made some progress with my spencer jacket, meaning I've just the collar left to fiddle about with, and have finally decided what colour to trim it with! As it's a sort of beige-y woven fabric, my first thought was black, but, as I thought about it, I settled on navy blue. My reason being, is that I'm finally getting round to trimming a bonnet that I started a good few months back, and I can then get the beginnings of an outfit together.

Feathers! This was before I'd had a play and curled them. The cockade was also loosely pinned to get an idea of the final trim.

I realise I'm going about this all in the complete wrong order, as I don't even have a complete set of underwear, but, ah well. I'm eager to get going, and as I've mentioned before, if I don't have the necessary materials, it can take a little while to get things done. 

A second spencer, in process.

It would appear my last post has worked, as I'm currently working on another Regency spencer jacket! I realise I'm creating my Regency wardrobe entirely the wrong way round, meaning I've got the stays, and the outerwear, but that's it. You see, I don't get the chance to go fabric shopping often, and prefer going to the shops as opposed to online shopping, and so if I don't have the materials needed, it doesn't often get done! Spencer jackets don't require a lot of fabric, and are fun to play around with, and there is my reason. Now, I've made a spencer jacket before, using the Sense & Sensibility Spencer Pattern, which I've yet to take photos of, but I altered it to fit over modern underwear. And also as a sort of introduction to Regency clothes, for myself. I will post a picture as soon as I get round to taking one.

 I wanted to have a good old fiddle with this pattern, to alter the shape, as well as a few other tweaks.

Here is my first mock up. On the right, is simply the pattern pieces stitched together. All I've done is extend the gather over the shoulder, which you can't see in this photo. Notice how the armhole more or less extends outwards from the point of the 'diamond'. Well, being fairly broad shouldered, this doesn't suit me as well as an armhole set further in. It also is more to the shape of the later Regency era, getting into the sloped shoulders and big ol' sleeves of the 1830's.

On the left, I've started to alter it by simply taking in the shoulder seam. However, this turned out to be a bigger job than I thought. 

Here you can see the problem a little clearer. Having taken in the seam, I've caused puckers where the fabric is pulled up. Easily fixed, just takes a little bit more fiddling. I unpicked the entire bottom left seams and all seams surrounding, and moved them into place.

Other alterations I've made and are in the process of making include taking in the shoulders, adding a stand up collar, extending the lapels, taking in the side seams, as well as the sleeves, reducing the puff, and fixing the darts. Just a few tweaks then!

The tiny specks you see in between the drawn darts are where they were supposed to end. 

And here are the darts at work!

Since then, I've made a second mock up using the pieces from the first, and it fits rather nicely. Next up, more tweaks, and the collar.

A little Regency inspiration.

I feel this blog has been a little Edwardian heavy lately, and so I thought I'd put together a quick (or not so) post of Regency inspiration, for both myself, and anybody out there who may be interested.

Let's kick things off with some fashion plates! Fashion plates are often a good source of finding historically accurate inspiration, but it is a good idea to bare in mind that these were high end, therefore not necessarily worn by everybody. It's like how today we have the super-duper trendy items of clothing, and then we have the clothes that we feel comfortable in, or are best suited to our personal taste.

Mint green pelisse with ribbon trim, 1817.

c. 1800

What fabulous trim on that spencer! Also, note the clocked stockings.

Gibson Girl Blouse

As featured in my previous post, here are some photos of my Edwardian shirtwaist! Made out of polycotton using the Folkwear #205 Gibson Girl Blouse pattern.

Buttons all the way up the back, with a hook and eye at the collar.

Here it is with the tie undone, and this photo gives you a better idea of the fullness the gathers create.

Sleeve gathered at the shoulder, lace appliquéd onto the yoke, and also inserted into the stand up collar.

The same shot, but inside out.

Now, the original plan was to put a facing on the yoke, both the front and the back, and then an interfacing in the collar, and so I put the blouse together with this in mind. It was only when I was about to add the facing, that I decided against it! Hence the bias binding where there should be a french seam. But, it adds a bit of structure, so I'm really not that fussed.

The bias cuff and gathers on the sleeve. One of my favourite parts of this blouse!

And, to put it in context...

You can see the scalloped edge of my corset cover underneath in this one!

Over all, I'm quite pleased with it, for a first attempt. Next time, I'll go one whole step further, and add a bunch of lace inserts!