Thursday 8 May 2014

A second spencer, in process.

It would appear my last post has worked, as I'm currently working on another Regency spencer jacket! I realise I'm creating my Regency wardrobe entirely the wrong way round, meaning I've got the stays, and the outerwear, but that's it. You see, I don't get the chance to go fabric shopping often, and prefer going to the shops as opposed to online shopping, and so if I don't have the materials needed, it doesn't often get done! Spencer jackets don't require a lot of fabric, and are fun to play around with, and there is my reason. Now, I've made a spencer jacket before, using the Sense & Sensibility Spencer Pattern, which I've yet to take photos of, but I altered it to fit over modern underwear. And also as a sort of introduction to Regency clothes, for myself. I will post a picture as soon as I get round to taking one.

 I wanted to have a good old fiddle with this pattern, to alter the shape, as well as a few other tweaks.


Here is my first mock up. On the right, is simply the pattern pieces stitched together. All I've done is extend the gather over the shoulder, which you can't see in this photo. Notice how the armhole more or less extends outwards from the point of the 'diamond'. Well, being fairly broad shouldered, this doesn't suit me as well as an armhole set further in. It also is more to the shape of the later Regency era, getting into the sloped shoulders and big ol' sleeves of the 1830's.

On the left, I've started to alter it by simply taking in the shoulder seam. However, this turned out to be a bigger job than I thought. 


Here you can see the problem a little clearer. Having taken in the seam, I've caused puckers where the fabric is pulled up. Easily fixed, just takes a little bit more fiddling. I unpicked the entire bottom left seams and all seams surrounding, and moved them into place.

Other alterations I've made and are in the process of making include taking in the shoulders, adding a stand up collar, extending the lapels, taking in the side seams, as well as the sleeves, reducing the puff, and fixing the darts. Just a few tweaks then!


The tiny specks you see in between the drawn darts are where they were supposed to end. 


And here are the darts at work!

Since then, I've made a second mock up using the pieces from the first, and it fits rather nicely. Next up, more tweaks, and the collar.

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