Thoughts on authenticity.

When I made my first historical garment, the medieval dress, back in 2012, I wasn't particularly fussed about authenticity. All I wanted was a dress with long, billowing sleeves, lots of lacing, and something that could have belonged in The Hobbit, or Robin Hood. In other words, a dress I'd wanted since I was little. I'd maybe put a little bit of research into what other people had done, but I really wasn't fussed. You only need look closely at the dress to spot the machined hem, the millions of machined button holes, and the bust darts!

I think that's because I was coming from more of a film/tv costume background. You see, I love films. Every element. The writing, the soundtrack, the cinematography. Then of course, there's the costumes. I grew up watching a lot of period dramas, and old movie musicals, and the things that would stay with me would often be the costumes. I always assumed that was the area I'd go into when I decided I wanted to pursue costume design as a career.

It was only once I really got into historical costuming that my intentions completely changed. I started looking at blogs, reading books, soaking up the silhouettes and looking a great deal into the undergarments of the times. I started striving for authenticity, still using modern patterns (as I couldn't afford the historical ones) but altering them to achieve the desired cut.

The problem I found with aiming for this level of authenticity, is that it was almost taking the joy out of putting myself into these garments I was creating. I would become obsessed with things like Edwardian fastenings and Regency trimmings, getting a little frustrated if there wasn't a blog post with the answer to the obscure question I was asking. I'd get a little lost, and talk myself into thinking that a certain fashion plate was the only thing people of that class would wear in that particular year.

But fashion plates were more or less the high end fashion magazines of their time, providing a look that people wouldn't often recreate for themselves, preferring to perhaps alter an existing gown to keep up with the latest styles. And I like to think that way, too.

When I was doing a bit of work experience at a fashion auction house in London at the start of the year, I came in contact with some antique gowns. They were mostly from about 1820-1870, and I tell you, childhood dreams came true! I was handling these beautiful Victorian gowns, and was able to take a close look at the construction work, as well as all the fastenings, and hidden pockets. It was actually quite an eye opener. I noticed that, so long as the dress looked correct once it was on, anything goes by way of how you actually get to that point. Things such as Edwardian collars wrapping all the way around the neck, and opening the front of the garment up in a zig zag like fashion, as the hooks and eyes were following the design. Evening gowns were more often than not simply thrown together, as you wouldn't be caught dead in the same dress twice in a row. People were creative. And it made me an awful lot more relaxed when it came to making my own historical garments.

I just wanted to share a few of my thoughts, as I haven't really done a post of this sort before.

A second spencer, finished.

As I was glancing over some previous blog posts, I realised that I never actually got round to posting photos of my finished spencer jacket. (Then of course, there's the entire Regency outfit that goes with it, but we'll save that for another time!)

You can read the work in progress post here, and I'll talk a little more about it as we go along, but without further ado...

Ta daaaa. It isn't based after an existing garment, nor a particular style from the Regency era. I was however aiming for an 1810 silhouette, with the design of, perhaps, more of an early 1800s jacket.

The fabric is a sort of wool/linen mix, not too heavy, but with a bit of body to it. It's actually quite ideal for a the simple, yet tailored spencer jacket I was looking to make. And it was given to me by a friend, and was therefore free! Bonus.

The jacket is fully lined with a lilac lining, excluding the collar, which is lined with a navy velvet to match the trim.

It was ridiculously difficult to get it to hang straight when on a hanger, and so I'm afraid I can only offer you a slightly wrinkled view of the back, but here you can see the classic Regency diamond cut, and the gathering of the sleeves. It also gives you a little glimpse at the inside, including the lining, facing, and fastenings.

The front closes with three hooks and eyes. I was originally going to have it fasten with buttons, but, as is so often the way, I ran out of time. This means that the jacket doesn't fit as snug as I had intended, but I don't think it turned out too badly!

It's trimmed with navy blue velvet ribbon in a somewhat military style across the front.

...and on the cuff, too.

Here, you can see how the jacket looks when being worn. Hobbes grew curious as I was taking the photos.

And, last but not least, when it's being worn by me, along with the rest of my Regency attire. 

More of that to come!

Edwardian: A quick guide on how to achieve 'the look'.

I was recently asked to write out a quick guide on how volunteers at Polesden Lacey can achieve the Edwardian look, as it's not just about putting on the costume. I thought I'd post it here, for anyone who might find it useful.

The desired look in the Edwardian era was very light, pale, and natural. The use of make up as we know it today was only just starting to become popular, and even then the objective was to create an effect of youthful beauty without anyone knowing you were actually wearing any. Here are some tips on how to achieve the fashionable Edwardian look.

• If you wear foundation, try and get some a shade or so lighter, and apply lightly.

• Alternatively, you can use a cheap pressed powder, also a shade or two lighter, and apply liberally. The light, powdered look was very much in fashion.

• Rouge was one product that started to be used for more of an everyday look, applied faintly to the cheeks and lips, but only to accentuate the natural colouring. Feel free to play around with this, applying a little blusher to the cheeks, and perhaps some tinted lip balm to the lips.
• Eye make up was still generally frowned upon, but this didn't stop women from coming up with ways to make their lashes appear longer, and so a bit of mascara can be used, but eyeliner came in much later.

• Eyebrows were a distinct feature of the desired Edwardian look, and creating that arched brow would add to the natural elegance, so have some fun there!

• Don't be afraid to experiment, and have a play to see just what works best for you.

Hair was a very important part of the Edwardian look. As the hats grew, so too did the hairstyles beneath in order to support them! Curls were all the rage, and curling irons soon came about, meaning hair became a frizzy, voluminous poof of curls piled on top of the head.

• For long to medium length, the easiest way to achieve your desired amount of volume, is to build your structure on top of something! Anything from hair rats to a pair of socks, with the hair swept over it works well. And you can almost mould it to fit underneath your hat, as they would have done.

• If your hair is shorter, then go for curls, and volume. Fluff it up and sweep it back to give the impression of an up-do.

• Edwardian hair was almost the opposite to the slick, neat and tidy look of the Victorians, so really go for the textured look.

• Some did have fringes, but they were heavily style and swept away from the face.

• Don't forget to style your hair to your hat! It should ideally be done in such a way that is can be seen from all angles, to show of your lovely locks.

Emily Winthrop, ca. 1910. Amateur autochrome by John B. Trevor.

A quick note.

This is what I've been up to recently.

First there was the Bath Jane Austen Festival back in September, along with the Regency outfit I made myself, which certainly deserves its own post, but here's a little teaser for you.

And then I did a bit of talking on how to achieve the Edwardian look for the volunteers at Polesden Lacey (that lovely Edwardian house where I get to sit and sew Edwardian costumes, often dressing up in them myself).

I went to an exhibition at the V&A, on wedding dresses from 1775-2014, which was brilliant. Each dress had been donated, and so there were little stories behind them, and it was just lovely.

I finished another Edwardian corset, complete with flossing (decorative embroidery that holds the boning in place), which was something new to me. I've yet to take photos of the finished product, but here's a work in progress shot.

And now, I am getting back into dressmaking after having taken a little break, getting back into knitting after having taken a bit of a longer break, and sewing another Edwardian corset.

A quick Regency reticule.

No Regency outfit is complete without accessories, and when those accessories are functional as well as being pretty, you can't go much wrong.

A reticule was the name given to a little drawstring bag that ladies carried around, becoming popular when the 'pockets' of the 18th century were no longer commonly used, as the styles of dresses changed considerably. Here, and here are a couple of blog posts if you wanted some further reading...

Reticules are very easy to make, and with endless shapes, trimmings and designs to be used, you can really personalise them. I chose to literally personalise mine by embroidering my initials.

I used this tutorial as a guide, quickly sketching my own pattern, and it only took an evening to do!

Inside, it's fully lined, and nice and roomy.

Busy busy busy.

I was hoping it wouldn't be a repeat of last year, where I completely forgot to keep up with blogging during the summer, but alas, it has happened again. But, just like last year, I have been busy with interesting things!

Firstly, the show I mentioned in my last post went fabulously, and I had an absolute whale of a time.

And then, I went off for a couple of weeks in France, which was lovely.

I continued with my usual doings at Polesden Lacey, including the flossing on the Edwardian corset I'm working on, which is a functional but decorative type of embroidery that's designed to keep the boning in place.

And recently, I have been doing an awful lot of sewing. Or at least, it seams like an awful lot of sewing, but I don't appear to have much to show for it, if you get what I mean?

My spencer jacket is making progress, and I'm currently stitching on the velvet trim in a military inspired style.

And I made a quick Regency reticule one evening, as you do. I'll pop that into separate post.

Speaking of Regency, I do have a spot of news, which I'm rather excited about...

After wanting to for a good few years now, I shall be attending the Jane Austen Festival in Bath this year! Unfortunately it will only be the Costumed Promenade on the 13th of September, but still, I am very much looking forward to it. 

It does mean that I have to have a complete Regency outfit under my belt by that date, and that is what I have been getting on with recently. Undies are done, jacket, gown, bonnet and shoes are in progress. 

Will try and keep you updated, but here's a photo to be going on with! 

Feathers, bonnets, and 8tracks.

I haven't been doing an awful lot of work on my historical sewing lately, as I've been busy altering costumes for a show I'm performing in next month. Taking up hems here, adding panels there, the usual necessities when costuming amateur dramatics!

Now, something I tend to do when I've got to get through a lot of sewing, is listen to music.

I am a big music fan. Anything from classical to folk, from musicals to indie, my listening isn't limited to favourites. I'm often sat there with my headphones in, sewing (and sometimes singing) away. So, I thought it'd be a good a time as any to mention 8tracks. The website, that is...

Of the mixes I've done, this is my favourite. It gives you a little idea of the sort of things you can find.

It's basically somewhere people create playlists by uploading tracks of their choice, and you get to listen to them for free. It's all legal, as you are limited to the number of times you can skip tracks, and you don't know what's coming up next, and so on. But still, it's a small price to pay! You can find all sorts on there; period drama soundtracks, 1920's dance tracks, playlists that make you feel like you're striding down a road wearing shades with explosions going off behind you. All sorts.

And another thing I like about it, is that you can find people with similar music tastes to you, and look to see what they're listening to, and discover new music, or indulge in your favourite genres. It's pretty cool.

I have made some progress with my spencer jacket, meaning I've just the collar left to fiddle about with, and have finally decided what colour to trim it with! As it's a sort of beige-y woven fabric, my first thought was black, but, as I thought about it, I settled on navy blue. My reason being, is that I'm finally getting round to trimming a bonnet that I started a good few months back, and I can then get the beginnings of an outfit together.

Feathers! This was before I'd had a play and curled them. The cockade was also loosely pinned to get an idea of the final trim.

I realise I'm going about this all in the complete wrong order, as I don't even have a complete set of underwear, but, ah well. I'm eager to get going, and as I've mentioned before, if I don't have the necessary materials, it can take a little while to get things done.